Linocut Tutorial: Techniques and the Best Tools, Ink and Supplies

Linocut - Mt. Tam, California

Linocut - Mt. Tam, California

What's a linocut? Maybe you remember them from school? A linocut is a type of relief, or block print, and bears a lot of similarities to woodblock printing. Essentially, the artist carves an image into a linoleum (lino) block and what's left of the block is inked and printed.

I'm going to give you an overview of the process for making simple single-color linocuts on this page but I also lay out techniques for more challenging multi-color lino prints. I've included information on some of the best options for linocut tools, supplies and etching presses since those are common questions. I've included links that will take you to DickBlick.com and Amazon.com, where some block printing supplies are sold. If you click on those links, I would get a small commission if you end up buying something on the sites, but please shop at your favorite store! You can find more details about this here. McClain's Printmaking Supplies is a smaller company that also sells relief printing materials.

How to Make a Linocut Print

Yosemite Design on the Linoleum Block

Yosemite Design on the Linoleum Block

1. Linocut Design - My linocut design process usually starts with sketching on paper and a quick study or two on small pieces of linoleum while I experiment with compositions and patterns. I sometimes use Adobe Photoshop Elements to see how the print might look in different colors or by tweaking the composition. It's much more affordable than "professional" graphic design software like Adobe Illustrator.

After coming up with a plan, I sketch my final design on paper and transfer the image to the linoleum block using graphite transfer paper, or draw directly on the block. Of course, you can always just draw directly on the lino block.

  • Buying Linoleum Blocks - I buy my linoleum in large 18" x 24" unmounted blocks and then cut them down them to size with a box cutter, which can save some money. Personally, I use battleship gray linoleum and always get it unmounted and in packs of three. You can buy linoleum blocks in smaller sizes like 4"x6" and 8"x10" if you prefer, as well as mounted linoleum in a range of sizes like 9"x12"

I have to keep in mind that the image will be printed in reverse so I plan (when I remember!) accordingly. Though you can buy linoleum already mounted on wood, I usually don't find that necessary.

2. Carving a Linoleum Block - using gouges and other mark making tools, I carve the image in the block - typically battleship gray linoleum. What is carved out of the block will not be printed in the image. Always carve in a direction away from your other hand for safety's sake. You can use a bench hook to hold your block in place or a scrap of non-skid shelf lining laid underneath the block works well.

Carving the Linoleum Block with a Josei Sankaku To (V-Gouge)

Carving the Linoleum Block with a Josei Sankaku To (V-Gouge)

  • Selecting the Right Carving Tools - Gouges come in different shapes (like "V" and "U") and sizes depending on the job. Amongst the most popular tools (and my very first) is the Speedball linoleum cutter. It's affordable and comes with a range of interchangeable blades. I also use Power Grip carving tools and particularly like the "U" gouges.
  • Other choices are Pfeil tools and Flexcut gouges (I've not used these but they're popular). And, don't limit yourself to gouges, anything that makes a mark (nails, files, etc.) might work.
  • There are also excellent Japanese woodcut tools, which I really like. Sharp tools make all the difference, making it easier to carve fine details. McClain's Printmaking Supplies has good instructions on how to sharpen them.

If you carve a mistake in your lino, I have some tips on repairing the linoleum block.

3. Inking the Linoleum Block - I check my work periodically by rolling a thin layer of ink on the linoleum, usually with a Speedball rubber brayer, and printing. This gives me an idea of how the carving is coming along and I can make changes to my design as necessary. Here's an example of me proofing part of a linoleum block with black ink. Try to avoid over inking the block to keep ink from seeping down into the carved recesses of the block. I've learned that I'm happier with the printed results when I've applied the ink in a few thin layers.

Dick Blick Etching Press, Ink and Brayers

Dick Blick Etching Press, Ink and Brayers

4. Printing the Linocut - When printing, the paper is carefully laid on the inked block and burnished on the back with a tool called a baren - the back of a wooden spoon works too. Speedball makes a popular baren and I've had one for a couple years. It's handy, especially in combination with a spoon, but I did have to fix it by replacing the screws in the handle.

The block can also be printed on an etching press (or similar press), which is how most of my work is printed. This video shows me inking the lino block and pulling the print with a press. I find that the block typically prints better after a couple prints have been pulled.

  • Etching Presses - Here in the US, Conrad and Takach presses are amongst the best available. I'm a fan of Blick etching presses (I've bought two over the years!) because they offer excellent bang for the buck in comparison. Not surprisingly, they lack the refinement and build quality of the much more expensive brands, but they're $1,000's less expensive. I have two Blick presses in my studio; the Blick 999 Model II etching press (pictured here) and the smaller Blick Econo Etch Model II press and have been very pleased with them. If you're looking for a higher-end press, Conrad etching presses have a good reputation amongst printmakers. Alternatively, you could build your own press on a relatively small budget using a design like this Bottle Jack Press by Charles Morgan.
  • Printmaking Paper for Linocuts - Popular types of paper for relief printmaking include Rives BFK, Stonehenge and Japanese washi paper. Lighter weight paper is particularly well suited for printing by hand as it doesn't require as much pressure to get a nice, crisp impression. I usually buy my paper in large 22" x 30" sheets and then cut it to size. I do this by carefully tearing it along the edge of my 36" metal straightedge or using one of my paper trimmers. Finally, I let the ink dry keeping in mind that oil-based ink takes longer than water-based ink.